floor flake epoxy garage with car
Weekend DIY System

Epoxy Flake Garage Floor Installation Instructions

Weekend Step By Step DIY System

Read Thoroughly Before Starting!

How-to Build the Proper Foundation for a Durable Epoxy Flake Floor System.

IMPORTANT INSTALLATION NOTICE: The following application instructions are specifically designed for our weekend system to help you create a professional-grade epoxy flake garage floor. While individual product label instructions may vary slightly, these directions below are customized specifically for the combined products included in your kit and intended application process.

SkipGrind No-Grind Concrete Primer is the revolutionary groundwork that sets the stage for total WiseBond Floors epoxy success. This high-performance bonding primer eliminates the need for mechanical grinding while delivering powerful adhesion to properly prepared concrete. When applied correctly, SkipGrind penetrates deep into the surface, creating a rock-solid bond that drives the strength, longevity, and professional-grade finish of your entire epoxy floor system.

Two-Person Application for Maximum Efficiency and Consistent Results

Mixing and applying an epoxy garage flake coating system is most efficient with at least two (2) people. One person should focus on accurately mixing and pouring the epoxy onto the concrete, while the second person immediately spreads the material for consistent coverage. Once the pour is complete, both individuals can work together to evenly distribute the coating and maintain a smooth, uniform application.

SPIKED SHOES: During application of the primer, epoxy base-coat and flake broadcasting, spiked shoes will allow you to walk on the wet surface without leaving footprints, damaging the ability of the product to dry and cure properly.

ADHESION: A simple rule of thumb to test if your concrete surface is capable of an epoxy coating, is to drip a drop of water onto it. Do this in multiple areas around the room. If the water absorbs into the concrete, so will our SkipGrind no-grind primer.

IMPORTANT: Open the garage doors fully for proper air movement and ventilation! Only after product application should the garage door be closed but still open with a 6-8 inch gap for air circulation during the dry time and cure.

PROPER PPE: Personal Protective Equipment including gloves, eye protection, and appropriate respiratory protection, must be worn at all times during the mixing and application of epoxy products.

Avoid application on extremely cold or hot days or during wet, foggy weather. Apply with ambient and surface temperatures ranging above 50°F (10°C) and below 90°F (32°C) and that will remain within ranges for at least 12 hours following application.

What Are Expansion Control Joints?

Typically, most concrete garage floors will have expansion control joints. When present, these joints (cuts) often appear as a large plus sign (+) pattern that divides the garage floor into multiple sections. These joint cuts may be V-shaped grooves approximately 3/8” wide formed during the initial concrete pour, or more commonly, saw-cut joints about 3/16” wide and up to 1” deep created 18–24 hours after the concrete has partially cured.

MORE ON CONTROL JOINTS HERE

Weekend Epoxy Flake Installation Timeline

Stage Working Time Task / Description Cure/Wait
Day 1 Preparation Before Application Empty Garage; Grind & Fix/Fill Cracks; Sweep, Vacuum, Clean & Etch; 1st masking of walls & around unmovable objects.
Day 1 Afternoon or Evening 1 Hour Mix & Apply SkipGrind Concrete Primer on damp floor after cleaning. Do not fully close garage door. 18 Hours
Day 3 Morning 1 Hour Apply Epoxy Base & 1/4" Flakes. Do not fully close garage door. 6-8 Hours
Day 3 Afternoon 1 Hour Scrape and vacuum excess epoxy flakes from floor. N/A
Day 3 Afternoon 1 Hour Apply Polyaspartic Clear Top Coat. Do not fully close garage door. 10 Hours
(Light Walking)
Recovery after day 3 N/A Return of contents / No vehicle traffic. After full 24 hour cure. 24 Hours
(Do not slide objects)
Return to Service N/A Safe for driving / Vehicle traffic. After full cure for a total of 72 hours for vehicle. 48 Hours

NOTE: Industry-standard cure time after applying the topcoat, before allowing vehicle traffic, is a minimum of 72+ hours and may be longer depending on temperature, humidity, and environmental conditions.

Installation Tools
  • Chemical-Resistant Rubber Gloves
  • Respiratory Protection (Dust Mask)
  • Eye Protection
  • Protective Clothing
  • Safety Footwear
  • Electric or Cordless Hand Drill
  • Mixing Blades / Paddle (Jiffy Mixer)
  • Spiked Shoes
  • Tarp, Cardboard, or Drop Cloth (10’x10’)
  • Small Mixing Work Table
  • Blue Masking / Painters Tape
  • Disposable Paint Brushes
  • 5-Gallon Buckets
  • Paint Roller Frames
  • Angle Grinder & Blade
  • Putty Knife 3-4" Wide
  • Plastic Watering Sprinkle Can
  • Threaded Long Handle Pole(s)
  • Squeegee Frame
  • Squeegee Flat & Notched Blades
  • 3/8” Nap Rollers / Roller Covers
  • Flat Blade Floor Scraper
  • Scrub Brush Broom
PURCHASE TOOLS: All application tools can be purchased easily on our site and will ship with your DIY epoxy kit.

Step 1: Fill Cracks and Holes

REQUIRED TOOLS: Angle grinder, 1/4" to 3/8" crack chasing blade (These can be rented at a hardware store.), putty knife, broom, shop vacuum, and proper PPE.
  1. Open cracks and hairline fractures with an angle grinder to approximately 1/8" deep to ensure proper bonding. Fill all cracks and voids with KreteBond Concrete Crack Filler. The material cures in about 60 minutes and can then be sanded or ground smooth for a level surface.
  2. The ratio of KreteBond is 1 Part-A to 1 Part-B. Using separate scooping devices, measure equal amounts from container A and container B and place material on a mixing board. Once on mixing board, mix both components with a 3-4” putty knife until a uniform color has been reached. Mix for 1-2 mins. Do not mix more material than can be applied in 2-4 minutes.
  3. Apply KreteBond into the crack with a 3-4” putty knife, making sure to completely fill. Push material as far into the crack as possible. Feather the KreteBond at each side of the crack to reduce telegraphing through the finish product. KreteBond may require a second coat or diamond grinding at the edges after it has cured. If grinding is required, it is necessary to grind the feathered edge of the KreteBond down to bare concrete. If the grinding and feathering process is not done properly, highlights may telegraph through the new coating system.
  • Working time: 2-4 Mins - Do not mix more than can be applied in that window.
  • Cure time: 60 minutes

Step 2: Clean & Etch the Concrete Floor

REQUIRED TOOLS: Scrub brush broom, plastic watering sprinkle can, garden hose or power washer, shop vacuum, squeegee, and proper PPE.
  1. Any surface that is about to be coated needs to be completely cured, clean and free of all contaminants.
  2. Apply our Concrete Cleaner, Degreaser & Etcher to remove dirt, oil, and contaminants.
  3. Sweep and vacuum the concrete surface to remove all loose debris. Thoroughly scrape and wipe away any grease or oil contamination. For heavier buildup, a power washer can be used to assist with deeper pre-cleaning.
  4. Mix 1/3 gallon (43 oz.) of concentrate with 1 gallon of water in a plastic watering sprinkle can. One gallon of concentrate will produce 4 gallons of premix. Hot water will accelerate cleaning and etching.
  5. Working in sections approximately 10' × 10' at a time, lightly dampen the concrete surface with a fine spray of water. Using a plastic watering sprinkle can, apply the premixed solution evenly across the concrete. Scrub the solution into the surface with a scrub brush broom, working it thoroughly until the foaming action stops. Rinse the area completely with a garden hose or power washer until all visible signs of cleaner have been removed.
  6. Squeegee excess water out the door and allow the surface to dry completely.

Complete Surface Prep Instructions

Step 3: Mixing Area Setup

REQUIRED TOOLS: Mixing paddles, paint stir sticks, large tarp/drop cloth, or cardboard, shop towels, and proper PPE.

Set up a dedicated mixing area outside of your main application zone to prevent contamination and maintain a clean workflow. Choose a flat, well-ventilated space (typically in front of your garage) and place a 10'x12' protective drop cloth, plastic sheeting, or flattened cardboard on the ground to catch spills and drips. This barrier helps protect surrounding surfaces from epoxy splatter while giving you a controlled, organized station for accurate measuring and thorough mixing without disrupting your installation process.

Step 4: Masking The Area: SkipGrind Primer Application

REQUIRED TOOLS: Blue masking tape, utility knife, and proper PPE.

SkipGrind Primer is applied to the garage surface floor only. It does not need to be applied to stem walls or cove joints.

If the garage walls are already painted, apply blue painter’s tape along the perimeter where the wall meets the floor, leaving a 1/8" gap above the surface.

For application purposes, mark reference points the first 200 sq. ft. of the floor from the back wall to an expansion joint, if present. If floor area is larger than 200 sq ft., use a second 2-gal kit and apply wet on wet.

IMPORTANT! Where the garage door comes down to the floor, apply 1" of tape back and away from the bottom of the garage door where it meets the floor. This ensures the primer does NOT go past where the garage door comes down.

Make sure the painters' tape is firmly pressed onto the area to ensure correct adhesion so no epoxy can seep or “bleed” underneath.

NOTE: Do not mix primer before completely masking off unmovable objects (water heater, A/C, etc.) and sections that need to be protected.

Step 5: Mixing SkipGrind Primer

REQUIRED TOOLS: 5-gallon bucket, mixing paddles (Jiffy mixer), paint stir sticks, shop towels, face/dust mask and proper PPE.
  1. SkipGrind Primer kits are premeasured consisting of one jug of Part-A resin, one jug of Part-B hardener, and bags of Part-C thickening dry blend. NOTE: Part-C thickening blend is a dry powder and can easily form clumps if all three components are mixed together too quickly or inadequately. Incomplete mixing will cause an inconsistent finish.

    IMPORTANT!

    For best mixing results, pour Part-A resin and Part–B hardener into a 5-gallon mixing bucket and slowly blend in Part-C powder until fully dispersed and lump-free.

    It is important to “wet-out” all parts of dry mix, scraping the bottom and sides of bucket. Once the thickening dry blend Part-C has been completely incorporated, mechanically mix for approx. another 20 to 30 seconds.

  2. Mix the entire kit.
  3. After mixing, immediately pour onto concrete garage surface!
  4. NOTE: Hotter air temperature and higher humidity can reduce work-time.

Step 6: Apply SkipGrind Primer

REQUIRED TOOLS: Spiked Shoes, notched blade squeegee, long handle 18" paint roller & covers, and proper PPE.

Make sure that temperatures will remain between 50- and 90-degrees Fahrenheit and relative humidity to stay below 75%.

  1. While wearing spiked shoes, immediately after mixing, pour the entire bucket evenly onto the concrete surface in wavy ribbons running perpendicular across the floor. Spread at approximately 100 sq. ft. per gallon (Each 2-gal "kit" will cover 200 sq. ft.). Do not scrape the sides or the bottom of the mixing bucket onto the floor. Any unmixed product can contaminate the cure process.
  2. An easy method is to apply within expansion joints. Avoid filling and puddling in expansion joints. Clean out joints if needed.
  3. Use the 26" Easy Squeegee® Notched Blade, 15-20 Wft Mils gauge squeegee for proper thickness to spread the material.
  4. Next, using a 3/8” nap 18-inch non-shedding roller with a phenolic (plastic) core, roll the primer lightly forward and backward to distribute it evenly across the entire surface, do not cross roll. Roll just as you would paint a floor, ensuring uniform coverage working your way out of the room.

NOTES:

Do not tip the epoxy container upside-down on the floor. Any unmixed material can and will contaminate the cure process.

Remove tape: Masking tape must be removed before the primer begins to dry or cure. It is highly recommended to pull the tape up during application as you work your way toward the exit. Waiting until after complete application and walking back across the surface in spiked shoes will leave marks or indentations in the “SkipGrind Primer” that may not self-level or flow back smooth.

IMPORTANT: At the garage door threshold, where the floor meets the driveway and the 1" strip of painter's tape has been applied, do not remove the tape until the primer has become tacky. This allows the primer sufficient time to set and helps prevent it from flowing onto the protected area beneath the tape or beyond the edge onto the driveway, ensuring a clean, professional transition line. The tape can typically be removed approximately 45 minutes to 1 hour after application, depending on temperature and curing conditions.

  • Working time: 15-20 minutes
  • COVERAGE: 200 sq. ft. per "kit"
  • Dry time (walking): 18 hours
  • NOTE: SkipGrind must be allowed to cure a MINIMUM of 18 hours and completely tack free before coating with epoxy base-coat and broadcasting flake chips.
Do not fully close the garage door during this curing window, as restricted airflow can impact performance and finish quality.

Step 7: Masking The Area: Epoxy & Flake Application

REQUIRED TOOLS: Blue masking tape, utility knife, and proper PPE.

Typically, stem walls/cove joints and the foundation block should be coated with epoxy and flakes. Tape off above that section to ensure clean, sharp lines for epoxy and flakes.

If the garage walls are already painted, apply blue painter’s tape along the perimeter where the wall meets the floor, leaving a 1/8" gap above the surface.

For application purposes, mark reference points the first 200 sq. ft. of the floor from the back wall to an expansion joint, if present.

IMPORTANT! Where the garage door comes down to the floor, apply 1" of tape back and away from the bottom of the garage door. This ensures the epoxy coating does NOT go past where the garage door comes down.

Make sure the painters' tape is firmly pressed onto the area to ensure correct adhesion so no epoxy can seep or “bleed” underneath.

Once the epoxy base-coat has been applied, the tape must be removed. This ensures the tape doesn't become adhered to walls and objects when it dries/cures.

You will have around 45 minutes to maybe 1 hour to remove the tape. Use spiked shoes to walk across quickly (but carefully) and pull the tape slowly from each end all the way across where it is taped.

NOTE: Do not mix epoxy before completely masking off unmovable objects (water heater, A/C, etc.) and sections that need to be protected.

Step 8: Mixing Floor Base-Coat Epoxy

REQUIRED TOOLS: Mixing paddles (Jiffy mixer), paint stir sticks, shop towels, and proper PPE.
  1. Pre-mix the pre-tinted Part A for 30 seconds. Add the entire contents of Part B (1 part B to 2 parts A) into the Part A container, which is intentionally short-filled to achieve the correct ratio. Mix thoroughly for 90 seconds to 2 minutes. About halfway through the mixing process, scrape the sides and bottom of the container to ensure all material is fully incorporated and a complete, uniform blend is achieved.
  2. Mix the entire kit.
  3. After mixing, immediately pour onto concrete garage surface!
  4. NOTE: Hotter air temperature and higher humidity can reduce work-time.

Step 9: Apply Epoxy Base-Coat on Concrete Floor

REQUIRED TOOLS: Spiked Shoes, flat blade squeegee, long handle paint roller & covers, and proper PPE.

Make sure that temperatures will remain between 50- and 90-degrees Fahrenheit and relative humidity to stay below 75%.

    Stem walls/cove joints: If applicable, first with a paintbrush or small handheld roller, apply epoxy to the stem walls/cove joint concrete outer side walls of the room. Not all garage floors will have this or have it showing. This is also a good time to cut-in the edges of the floor against the wall and corners.
  1. While wearing spiked shoes, immediately pour the mixed epoxy onto the floor in wavy wide ribbons, running perpendicular across the surface. Do not scrape the sides or the bottom of the mixing bucket onto the floor. Any unmixed product can contaminate the cure process.
  2. An easy method is to apply within expansion joints. Avoid filling and puddling in expansion joints. Clean out joints if needed.
  3. Use the 26" Easy Squeegee™ with Flat Stiff Blade to evenly spread epoxy across floor surface.
  4. Next, using a 3/8” nap 18-inch non-shedding roller with a phenolic (plastic) core, quickly roll the epoxy forward and backward to distribute it evenly across the entire surface. Apply just as you would paint a floor, ensuring uniform coverage working your way out of the room. Back roll in the opposite direction to level the coating IF NEEDED.

NOTES:

Be cautious to not leave roller lines or ridges which could show through as high points in the flakes.

Do not tip the epoxy container upside-down on the floor. Any unmixed material can and will contaminate the cure process.

Remove tape: You will have around 45 minutes to maybe 1 hour to remove the tape. Use spiked shoes to walk across quickly (but carefully) and pull the tape slowly from each end all the way across where it is taped.

  • Working time: 30-40 minutes
  • COVERAGE: 200-255 sq. ft. per gallon
  • Flaked Surface Dry time (walking): typically 6-8 hours
Do not fully close the garage door during this curing window, as restricted airflow can impact performance and finish quality.

Step 10: Flake Broadcasting into Wet Epoxy

REQUIRED TOOLS: Spiked Shoes, 5-gallon bucket, and proper PPE.
  1. While the floor epoxy is still wet, broadcast the included box epoxy flakes onto the entire surface.
  2. (If applicable, first toss flakes onto the concrete stem wall block perimeter and/or cove joint side walls. Toss flakes onto the bottom side walls around the garage evenly.)
  3. While wearing spiked shoes, broadcast the 1/4" flake chips across the entire surface. For easier application, transfer flakes into a 5-gallon bucket and toss them upward, allowing them widely to fall evenly onto the floor. Apply flakes until the base coat epoxy is completely covered and no "wet" epoxy is visible. A properly broadcast floor will appear dry and uniform, with no shiny spots. If any epoxy is visible, continue applying flakes until complete coverage is achieved.
  4. Apply flakes using heaping handfuls, tossing them upward and outward into the air so they fall naturally onto the wet epoxy. Use a light flicking motion, similar to feeding chickens, to help the flakes disperse evenly. Be careful not to dump piles of flakes, this will look unnatural. Aim to broadcast 2–3 feet out in front of you, allowing for consistent, uniform coverage across the surface.
  5. You should see an even and dry coating of flake with no shiny spots/areas when properly covered. Add more flakes if you see shiny epoxy showing through.
  6. If the floor has low spots where the base coat is deeper, flakes may “sink.” Broadcast sufficient flakes to completely saturate the low spot. Continue tossing flakes moving around as you go, backing out towards your exit until the base-coat is 100% covered completely.
  7. Pay close attention to expansion control joints during the flake broadcast to ensure complete, uniform coverage. Flakes should be applied generously so no shiny base-coat epoxy remains visible, especially within and around the joints. It is normal for control joints to visually “disappear” during this stage due to full flake coverage.
  • Flake Coverage: One 25 lb. box of 1/4" decorative flake chips will typically cover 200–250 sq. ft. at full coverage (100% broadcast).
  • Flaked Surface Dry time (walking): typically 6-8 hours
Do not fully close the garage door during this curing window, as restricted airflow can impact performance and finish quality.

Step 11: Remove Excess Flakes:

REQUIRED TOOLS: Flat blade scraper, broom, dustpan, shop vac, and proper PPE.
  1. Allow the flake broadcast garage floor to properly dry and cure. After 6-8 hours, remove excess flakes by scraping the surface with a flat-edge trowel or wide floor scraper (available on our website). This step knocks down sharp edges, vertical flake buildup, and any loose material to create a smooth, uniform profile.
  2. After the flake chips have been fully broadcast and cured, the expansion control joints must be reopened and cleaned out. Use a floor scraper or putty knife to carefully cut along the joint and remove any excess flakes or coating buildup.
  3. Don’t overlook the perimeter edges. Use a smaller scraper to remove excess flakes and buildup along base areas and lower wall edges. Finish by sweeping the surface with a stiff broom or leaf blower, then vacuum thoroughly to eliminate all remaining debris before applying the topcoat.

Step 12: Masking The Area: Polyaspartic Application

REQUIRED TOOLS: Blue masking tape, utility knife, and proper PPE.

Typically, stem walls/cove joints and the foundation block should be coated with epoxy and flakes. Tape off above that section to ensure clean, sharp lines for epoxy and flakes.

If the garage walls are already painted, apply blue painter’s tape along the perimeter where the wall meets the floor, leaving a 1/8" gap above the surface.

For application purposes, mark reference points the first 200 sq. ft. of the floor from the back wall to an expansion joint, if present.

IMPORTANT! Where the garage door comes down to the floor, apply 1" of tape back and away from the bottom of the garage door. This ensures the epoxy coating does NOT go past where the garage door comes down.

Make sure the painters' tape is firmly pressed onto the area to ensure correct adhesion so no epoxy can seep or “bleed” underneath.

Once the epoxy base-coat has been applied, the tape must be removed. This ensures the tape doesn't become adhered to walls and objects when it dries/cures.

You will have around 45 minutes to maybe 1 hour to remove the tape. Use spiked shoes to walk across quickly (but carefully) and pull the tape slowly from each end all the way across where it is taped.

NOTE: Do not mix Polyaspartic before completely masking off unmovable objects (water heater, A/C, etc.) and sections that need to be protected.

Step 13: Mix Polyaspartic Top-Coat

REQUIRED TOOLS: Mixing paddles (Jiffy mixer), paint stir sticks, shop towels, and proper PPE.
  1. Vigorously shake Part B for approximately 20 to 30 seconds. Pour Part-A and Part-B into a clean 5-gallon mixing bucket. Mix for 1 full minute using an electric drill at 500rpms, scraping the bottom and sides of the mixing container.
  2. If more than one 2-gallon kit is needed, do not mix more than can be applied within 25 minutes.
  3. Mix the entire kit.
  4. After mixing, immediately pour onto concrete garage surface!
  5. NOTE: Hotter air temperature and higher humidity can reduce work-time.

Step 14: Apply Polyaspartic Top-Coat Protection

REQUIRED TOOLS: Spiked Shoes, flat blade squeegee, long handle paint roller & covers, and proper PPE.

Make sure that temperatures will remain between 50- and 90-degrees Fahrenheit and relative humidity to stay below 75%.

  1. While wearing spiked shoes, immediately pour the mixed top-coat onto the floor in wavy wide ribbons, running perpendicular across the surface. Do not scrape the sides or the bottom of the mixing bucket onto the floor. Any unmixed product can contaminate the cure process.
  2. Use the 27" Easy Squeegee™ Flat Flexible Blade with Corner Wings (fits the 26" frame) to evenly spread epoxy across floor surface. Which should cover 125-150 sq. ft. per gallon.
  3. Next, using a 3/8” nap 18-inch non-shedding roller with a phenolic (plastic) core, roll the top-coat forward and backward to distribute it evenly across the entire surface. Apply just as you would paint a floor, ensuring uniform coverage working your way out of the room. Back roll in the opposite direction to level the coating IF NEEDED.

NOTE: Be cautious to not leave roller lines or ridges which could show through as high points in the flakes.

  • Pot life: 5 minutes
  • Working time: 25 minutes
  • COVERAGE: 125-150 sq. ft. per gallon
  • Dry time (walking): 12 hours (walking)
  • Dry time (return of contents): 24-48 hours
  • Cure return to Service: 72 hours+ (driving)
Do not fully close the garage door during this curing window, as restricted airflow can impact performance and finish quality.

 

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