Epoxy Flake Garage Floor Installation Instructions
Your complete weekend, step-by-step DIY system! The exact sequence to get professional results without spending a fortune, messy grinding or a hiring contractor.
Read Thoroughly Before Starting
The SkipGrind No-Grind Concrete Primer is the revolutionary groundwork that sets the stage for total WiseBond Floors epoxy success. This high-performance bonding primer eliminates the need for mechanical grinding while delivering powerful adhesion to properly prepared concrete.
Build the Proper Foundation for a Durable Concrete Garage Floor
When applied correctly, SkipGrind penetrates deep into the surface, creating a rock-solid bond that drives the strength, longevity, and professional-grade finish of your entire epoxy floor system.
These application instructions are specifically designed for our weekend system to help you create a professional-grade epoxy flake garage floor. While individual product label instructions may vary slightly, these directions are customized specifically for the combined products included in your kit and intended application process.
Two-Person Application for Maximum Efficiency
Mixing and applying an epoxy garage flake coating system is most efficient with at least two people. One person focuses on accurately mixing and pouring the epoxy onto the concrete, while the second immediately spreads the material for consistent coverage. Once the pour is complete, both can work together to evenly distribute the coating and maintain a smooth, uniform application.
Spiked shoes: During application of the primer, epoxy base-coat, and flake broadcasting, spiked shoes let you walk on the wet surface without leaving footprints or damaging the cure.
Avoid application on extremely cold or hot days or during wet, foggy weather. Apply with ambient and surface temperatures above 50°F (10°C) and below 90°F (32°C), and that will remain within range for at least 24 hours after application.
Safety & Surface Checks
Adhesion test: To check whether your concrete can accept an epoxy coating, drip a drop of water onto it in multiple areas. If the water absorbs into the concrete, so will our SkipGrind no-grind primer.
Ventilation: Open the garage doors fully for proper air movement. Only after application should the door be closed, and even then, leave a 6–8 inch gap for air circulation during dry and cure time.
Proper PPE: Gloves, eye protection, and appropriate respiratory protection must be worn at all times during mixing and application.
What Are Concrete Control Joints?
Typically, most concrete garage floors will have cut control joints. When present, these joints (cuts) often appear as a large plus sign (+) pattern that divides the garage floor into multiple sections. These joint cuts may be V-shaped grooves approximately 3/8” wide formed during the initial concrete pour, or more commonly, saw-cut joints about 3/16” wide and up to 1” deep created 18–24 hours after the concrete has partially cured.
Six Phases to a Showroom Floor
The full install breaks into six phases. The detailed, numbered step-by-step is just below.
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Phase 01 — PrepClean, Degrease & Etch Floor
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Phase 02 — PrimeApply SkipGrind Primer
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Phase 03 — BaseApply WiseFlake Epoxy
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Phase 04 — BroadcastBroadcast Multicolor Flake Chips
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Phase 05 — ScrapeScrape & Vacuum Excess Flakes
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Phase 06 — SealApply Polyaspartic Clear Coat
Installation Estimated Timeline
This installation timeline is provided as a general guideline to help plan and organize your epoxy floor installation. Actual days, start times, and project duration may vary based on your schedule, working pace, temperature, and site conditions.
| Stage | Working Time | Task / Description | Cure / Wait |
|---|---|---|---|
| Day 1 Preparation | Before Application | Empty Garage; Grind & Fix/Fill Cracks; Sweep, Vacuum, Clean & Etch; 1st masking of walls & around unmovable objects. |
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| Day 1 | 1 Hour | Mix & apply SkipGrind Concrete Primer on a damp (not wet) floor after cleaning. Do not fully close garage door. |
18 Hours |
| Day 2 After SkipGrind Cure |
1 Hour | Apply epoxy base & 1/4" flakes. Do not fully close garage door. |
6–8 Hours |
| Day 2 After Flake Cure | 1 Hour | Scrape and vacuum excess epoxy flakes from floor. |
N/A |
| Day 2 Later or Day 3 Morning | 1 Hour | Apply polyaspartic clear top coat. Do not fully close garage door. |
10 Hours (light walking) |
| Recovery After Day 3 | N/A | Return of contents / no vehicle traffic. (After full 24-hour cure.) |
24 Hours (do not slide objects) |
| Return to Service | N/A | Safe for driving / vehicle traffic. After a full cure totaling 72 hours for vehicles. |
48 Hours |
Detailed Installation Instructions
Follow each step in order, and read the entire guide before you begin.
PURCHASE TOOLS: All application tools can be purchased easily on our site and will ship with your DIY epoxy kit.
Tools & Materials You'll Need
- Chemical-Resistant Rubber Gloves
- Respiratory Protection (Dust Mask)
- Eye Protection
- Protective Clothing
- Safety Footwear
- Electric or Cordless Hand Drill
- Mixing Blades / Paddle (Jiffy Mixer)
- Spiked Shoes
- Tarp, Cardboard, or Drop Cloth (10’x10’)
- Small Mixing Work Table
- Blue Masking / Painters Tape
- Disposable Paint Brushes
- 5-Gallon Buckets
- Paint Roller Frames
- Angle Grinder & Blade
- Putty Knife 3-4" Wide
- Plastic Watering Sprinkle Can
- Threaded Long Handle Pole(s)
- Squeegee Frame
- Squeegee Flat & Notched Blades
- 3/8” Nap Rollers / Roller Covers
- Flat Blade Floor Scraper
- Scrub Brush Broom
- Mini-roller & covers
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Step 1: Fill Cracks and Holes
REQUIRED TOOLS: Angle grinder, 1/8" crack chasing blade (These can be rented at a hardware store.), putty knife, broom, shop vacuum, and proper PPE.
- Hairline cracks must be routed with an 1/8" concrete cutting blade and to approx. 1/4" to 3/8" depth. Make sure to remove any loose concrete and/or foreign material. Dust and debris should be brushed and vacuumed out of crack and off surrounding areas. Fill all cracks and voids with KreteBond Concrete Crack Filler. The material cures in about 60 minutes and can then be sanded or ground smooth for a level surface.
- The mix ratio of KreteBond is 1 Part-A to 1 Part-B. Using separate scooping devices, measure equal amounts from container A and container B and place material on a mixing board. Once on mixing board, mix both components with a 3-4” putty knife until a uniform color has been reached. Mix for 1-2 mins. Do not mix more material than can be applied in 2-4 minutes.
- Apply KreteBond into the crack with a 3-4” putty knife, making sure to completely fill. Push material as far into the crack as possible. Feather the KreteBond at each side of the crack to reduce telegraphing through the finish product. KreteBond may require a second coat or diamond grinding at the edges after it has cured. If grinding is required, it is necessary to grind the feathered edge of the KreteBond down to bare concrete. If the grinding and feathering process is not done properly, highlights may telegraph through the new coating system.
- Working time: 2-4 Mins - Do not mix more than can be applied in that window.
- Cure time: 60 minutes
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Step 2: Clean & Etch the Concrete Floor
REQUIRED TOOLS: Scrub brush broom, plastic watering sprinkle can, garden hose or power washer, shop vacuum, squeegee, and proper PPE.
- Any surface that is about to be coated needs to be completely cured, clean and free of all contaminants.
- Apply our Concrete Cleaner, Degreaser & Etcher to remove dirt, oil, and contaminants.
- Sweep and vacuum the concrete surface to remove all loose debris. Thoroughly scrape and wipe away any grease or oil contamination. For heavier buildup, a power washer can be used to assist with deeper pre-cleaning.
- Mix 1/3 gallon (43 oz.) of concentrate with 1 gallon of water in a plastic watering sprinkle can. One gallon of concentrate will produce 4 gallons of premix. Hot water will accelerate cleaning and etching.
- Working in sections approximately 10' × 10' at a time, lightly dampen the concrete surface with a fine spray of water. Using a plastic watering sprinkle can, apply the premixed solution evenly across the concrete. Scrub the solution into the surface with a scrub brush broom, working it thoroughly until the foaming action stops. Rinse the area completely with a garden hose or power washer until all visible signs of cleaner have been removed.
- Use a squeegee or leaf blower to remove any standing water from corners, low spots, and out through the garage door, leaving the surface uniformly damp and ready for primer application.
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Step 3: Mixing Area Setup
REQUIRED TOOLS: Mixing paddles, paint stir sticks, large tarp/drop cloth, or cardboard, shop towels, and proper PPE.
Set up a dedicated mixing area outside of your main application zone to prevent contamination and maintain a clean workflow. Choose a flat, well-ventilated space (typically in front of your garage) and place a 10'x12' protective drop cloth, plastic sheeting, or flattened cardboard on the ground to catch spills and drips. This barrier helps protect surrounding surfaces from epoxy splatter while giving you a controlled, organized station for accurate measuring and thorough mixing without disrupting your installation process.
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Step 4: Masking Around Unmovable Objects
Apply blue painter’s tape around the base of all unmovable appliances and objects such as water heaters, freezers, refrigerators, air-conditioning units, and similar fixtures. Taping the bottom edges helps protect these items from accidental contact with the primer, epoxy base coat, flake broadcast, and polyaspartic top coat. If any tape becomes contaminated with SkipGrind Primer, epoxy, or polyaspartic, remove and replace the tape before the next application step. However, if the tape remains clean and free of any coating material, it may remain in place and does not need to be removed or replaced between installation stages.
IMPORTANT! Where the garage door meets the floor, apply a 1-inch strip of painter's tape set back from the bottom edge of the garage door. This tape creates a clean transition line and helps prevent primer, epoxy, or polyaspartic from extending beyond the garage door threshold onto the driveway. The tape must be removed after each product application and then reapplied before the next coating step once the previous coat has fully cured. -
Step 5: Stem Walls & Foundation Application: CoveCoat Primer
REQUIRED TOOLS: Stir stick, paint brush, 4-6" mini-roller & covers, utility knife, and proper PPE.
Make sure that temperatures will remain between 50- and 90-degrees Fahrenheit and relative humidity to stay below 75%.
IF APPLICABLE! Apply decorative 1/4" flake chips to coves, stem walls, stair risers, foundation walls, and other vertical concrete surfaces before any floor coating products are applied.
CoveCoat eliminates the need to use floor epoxy as an adhesive for decorative 1/4" flake chips on coves, stem walls, stair risers, foundation walls, and other vertical concrete surfaces. This easy-to-use, single-component coating provides exceptional adhesion, making it simple to achieve full flake coverage on vertical areas simple and effective.
- Stir CoveCoat thoroughly for 30-45 seconds prior to application. Working in 2-3 foot sections, apply CoveCoat evenly to the vertical surface using a brush or roller. Avoid excessive buildup, runs, or puddling.
- Immediately pour decorative 1/4" flake chips onto the floor directly in front of the freshly coated area.
- Using a wide putty knife, scoop the flakes upward onto the wet CoveCoat surface until complete cover-age is achieved. Tossing flakes by hand onto vertical surfaces typically will not provide full, uniform coverage.
- For stair steps and other horizontal surfaces, apply CoveCoat by brush or roller and broadcast decorative flakes to full coverage while the coating remains wet.
- After the flakes have cured to the CoveCoat for approximately 30-60 minutes, scrape the surface to remove any loose or protruding flake chips. Using a wide putty knife, scrape the surface to knock down high spots and create a more uniform profile before proceeding to later apply the polyaspartic.
Surface Preparation: Surfaces must be clean, dry, and free of dust, dirt, oil, grease, stains, silicone, or other contaminants that may interfere with adhesion.
- Working time: 2-5 minutes
- Dry time (walking): 30-60 mins
Clean Up: Thoroughly sweep and vacuum all loose and excess flakes from the floor surface before proceeding with the application of SkipGrind Primer.
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Step 6: Masking the Area: SkipGrind Primer Application
REQUIRED TOOLS: Blue masking tape, utility knife, and proper PPE.
SkipGrind Primer is applied to the garage surface floor only. It does not need to be applied to stem walls or cove joints.
If the garage walls are already painted, apply blue painter’s tape along the perimeter where the wall meets the floor, leaving a 1/8" gap above the surface. IMPORTANT: If coating material comes into contact with the tape during application, remove the tape immediately!
For application purposes, mark reference points the first 200 sq. ft. of the floor from the back wall to an control joint, if present. If floor area is larger than 200 sq ft., use a second 2-gal kit and apply wet on wet.
IMPORTANT! Where the garage door comes down to the floor, apply 1" of tape back and away from the bottom of the garage door where it meets the floor. This ensures the primer does NOT go past where the garage door comes down. Pull this tape immediately after application!
Make sure the painters' tape is firmly pressed onto the area to ensure correct adhesion so no epoxy can seep or “bleed” underneath.
NOTE: Do not mix primer before completely masking off unmovable objects (water heater, A/C, etc.) and sections that need to be protected.
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Step 7: Mixing SkipGrind Primer
REQUIRED TOOLS: 5-gallon bucket, mixing paddles (Jiffy mixer), paint stir sticks, shop towels, face/dust mask and proper PPE.
- SkipGrind Primer kits are premeasured consisting of one jug of Part-A resin, one jug of Part-B hardener, and bags of Part-C thickening dry blend. NOTE: Part-C thickening blend is a dry powder and can easily form clumps if all three components are mixed together too quickly or inadequately. Incomplete mixing will cause an inconsistent finish. IMPORTANT!For best mixing results, pour Part-A resin and Part–B hardener into a 5-gallon mixing bucket and slowly blend in Part-C powder until fully dispersed and lump-free.It is important to “wet-out” all parts of dry mix, scraping the bottom and sides of bucket. Once the thickening dry blend Part-C has been completely incorporated, mechanically mix for approx. another 20 to 30 seconds.
- Mix the entire kit.
- After mixing, immediately pour onto concrete garage surface. Do not leave the mixed material in the bucket. This product is designed to be mixed and poured out in its entirety.
- NOTE: Hotter air temperature and higher humidity can reduce work-time.
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Step 8: Apply SkipGrind Primer
REQUIRED TOOLS: Spiked Shoes, notched blade squeegee, long handle 18" paint roller & covers, and proper PPE.
Make sure that temperatures will remain between 50- and 90-degrees Fahrenheit and relative humidity to stay below 75%.
NOTE: Apply SkipGrind Primer on a damp floor. It should be applied after the floor surface has been thoroughly cleaned, etched, and rinsed (Day 1 Prep). The garage floor should be damp but not wet. Use a squeegee or leaf blower to remove any standing water from corners, low spots, and out through the garage door, leaving the surface uniformly damp and ready for primer application.
- Immediately after mixing, pour the entire bucket evenly onto the concrete surface in wavy ribbons running perpendicular across the floor. Spread at approximately 100 sq. ft. per gallon (Each 2-gal/3-Part "kit" will cover 200 sq. ft.). Do not scrape the sides or the bottom of the mixing bucket onto the floor. Any unmixed product can contaminate the cure process.
- An easy application method is to work within the concrete control joint, spreading the primer with a squeegee and then back-rolling it smooth as you progress toward the garage door exit. Do not wear spiked shoes while walking on the SkipGrind Primer, as they can leave indentations or marks that may not self-level or heal during the curing process. Avoid filling and puddling in control joints. Clean out joints if needed.
- Use the 26" Easy Squeegee® Notched Blade, 15-20 Wft Mils gauge squeegee for proper thickness to spread the material.
- Next, using a 3/8” nap 18-inch non-shedding roller with a phenolic (plastic) core, roll the primer lightly forward and backward to distribute it evenly across the entire surface, do not cross roll. Roll just as you would paint a floor, ensuring uniform coverage working your way out of the room.
NOTES:
Do not tip the epoxy container upside-down on the floor. Any unmixed material can and will contaminate the cure process.
Remove tape: Masking tape must be removed before the primer begins to dry or cure. It is highly recommended to pull the tape up during application as you work your way toward the exit. Waiting until after complete application and walking back across the surface in spiked shoes will leave marks or indentations in the “SkipGrind Primer” that may not self-level or flow back smooth.
IMPORTANT: At the garage door threshold, where the floor meets the driveway and the 1" strip of painter's tape has been applied, do not remove the tape until the primer has become tacky. This allows the primer sufficient time to set and helps prevent it from flowing onto the protected area beneath the tape or beyond the edge onto the driveway, ensuring a clean, professional transition line. The tape can typically be removed approximately 45 minutes to 1 hour after application, depending on temperature and curing conditions.
- Working time: 15-20 minutes
- COVERAGE: 200 sq. ft. per "kit"
- Dry time (walking): 18 hours
- NOTE: SkipGrind must be allowed to cure a MINIMUM of 18 hours and completely tack free before coating with epoxy base-coat and broadcasting 1/4" flake chips.
Do not fully close the garage door during this curing window, as restricted airflow can impact performance and finish quality.
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Step 9: Masking the Area: Epoxy & Flake Application
REQUIRED TOOLS: Blue masking tape, utility knife, and proper PPE.
Typically, stem walls/cove joints and the foundation block should be coated with epoxy and flakes. Tape off above that section to ensure clean, sharp lines for epoxy and flakes.
If the garage walls are already painted, apply blue painter’s tape along the perimeter where the wall meets the floor, leaving a 1/8" gap above the surface.
For application purposes, mark reference points the first 200 sq. ft. of the floor from the back wall to an control joint, if present.
IMPORTANT! Where the garage door comes down to the floor, apply 1" of tape back and away from the bottom of the garage door. This ensures the epoxy coating does NOT go past where the garage door comes down.
Make sure the painters' tape is firmly pressed onto the area to ensure correct adhesion so no epoxy can seep or “bleed” underneath.
Once the epoxy base-coat and flakes have been applied, the tape must be removed. This ensures the tape doesn't become adhered to walls and objects when it dries/cures.
You will have around 45 minutes to maybe 1 hour to remove the tape. Use spiked shoes to walk across quickly (but carefully) and pull the tape slowly from each end all the way across where it is taped.
NOTE: Do not mix epoxy before completely masking off unmovable objects (water heater, A/C, etc.) and sections that need to be protected.
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Step 10: Mixing Floor Base-Coat Epoxy
REQUIRED TOOLS: Mixing paddles (Jiffy mixer), paint stir sticks, shop towels, and proper PPE.
- Stir / Pre-mix the pre-tinted Part A for 20-30 seconds. Add the entire contents of Part B (1 part B to 2 parts A) into the Part A container, which is intentionally short-filled to achieve the correct ratio. Mix thoroughly for 90 seconds to 2 minutes. About halfway through the mixing process, scrape the sides and bottom of the container to ensure all material is fully incorporated and a complete, uniform blend is achieved.
- Mix the entire kit.
- After mixing, immediately pour onto concrete garage surface!
- NOTE: Hotter air temperature and higher humidity can reduce work-time.
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Step 11: Apply Epoxy Base-Coat on Concrete Floor
REQUIRED TOOLS: Spiked Shoes, flat blade squeegee, long handle paint roller & covers, and proper PPE.
Make sure that temperatures will remain between 50- and 90-degrees Fahrenheit and relative humidity to stay below 75%.
Stem walls/cove joints: If applicable, first with a paintbrush or small handheld roller, apply epoxy to the stem walls/cove joint concrete outer side walls of the room. Not all garage floors will have this or have it showing. This is also a good time to cut-in the edges of the floor against the wall and corners.
- While wearing spiked shoes, immediately pour the mixed epoxy onto the floor in wavy wide ribbons, running perpendicular across the surface. Do not scrape the sides or the bottom of the mixing bucket onto the floor. Any unmixed product can contaminate the cure process.
- An easy method is to apply within control joints. Avoid filling and puddling in joints. Clean out joints if needed.
- Use the 26" Easy Squeegee™ with Flat Stiff Blade to evenly spread epoxy across floor surface at approx. 200 SF/Gal.
- Next, using a 3/8” nap 18-inch non-shedding roller with a phenolic (plastic) core, quickly roll the epoxy forward and backward to distribute it evenly across the entire surface. Apply just as you would paint a floor, ensuring uniform coverage working your way out of the room. Back roll in the opposite direction to level the coating IF NEEDED.
NOTES:
Be cautious to not leave roller lines or ridges which could show through as high points in the flakes.
Do not tip the epoxy container upside-down on the floor. Any unmixed material can and will contaminate the cure process.
- Working time: 30-40 minutes
- COVERAGE: 200-255 sq. ft. per gallon
- Flaked Surface Dry time (walking): typically 6-8 hours
Do not fully close the garage door during this curing window, as restricted airflow can impact performance and finish quality.
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Step 12: Flake Broadcasting into Wet Epoxy
REQUIRED TOOLS: Spiked Shoes, 5-gallon bucket, and proper PPE.
- While the floor epoxy is still wet, broadcast the included box epoxy flakes onto the entire surface.
- (If applicable, first toss flakes onto the concrete stem wall block perimeter and/or cove joint side walls. Toss flakes onto the bottom side walls around the garage evenly.)
- While wearing spiked shoes, broadcast the 1/4" flake chips across the entire surface. For easier application, transfer flakes into a 5-gallon bucket and toss them upward, allowing them widely to fall evenly onto the floor. Apply flakes until the base coat epoxy is completely covered and no "wet" epoxy is visible. A properly broadcast floor will appear dry and uniform, with no shiny spots. If any epoxy is visible, continue applying flakes until complete coverage is achieved.
- Apply flakes using heaping handfuls, tossing them upward and outward into the air so they fall naturally onto the wet epoxy. Use a light flicking motion, similar to feeding chickens, to help the flakes disperse evenly. Be careful not to dump piles of flakes, this will look unnatural. Aim to broadcast 2–3 feet out in front of you, allowing for consistent, uniform coverage across the surface.
- You should see an even and dry coating of flake with no shiny spots/areas when properly covered. Add more flakes if you see shiny epoxy showing through.
- If the floor has low spots where the base coat is deeper, flakes may “sink.” Broadcast sufficient flakes to completely saturate the low spot. Continue tossing flakes moving around as you go, backing out towards your exit until the base-coat is 100% covered completely.
- Pay close attention to control joints during the flake broadcast to ensure complete, uniform coverage. Flakes should be applied generously so no shiny base-coat epoxy remains visible, especially within and around the joints. It is normal for control joints to visually “disappear” during this stage due to full flake coverage.
Remove tape: Once the epoxy base-coat and flakes have been applied, the tape must be removed. This ensures the tape doesn't become adhered to walls and objects when it dries/cures. You will have around 45 minutes to maybe 1 hour to remove the tape. Use spiked shoes to walk across quickly (but carefully) and pull the tape slowly from each end all the way across where it is taped.
- Flake Coverage: One 25 lb. box of 1/4" decorative flake chips will typically cover 200–250 sq. ft. at full coverage (100% broadcast).
- Flaked Surface Dry time (walking): typically 6-8 hours
Do not fully close the garage door during this curing window, as restricted airflow can impact performance and finish quality.
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Step 13: Remove Excess Flakes
REQUIRED TOOLS: Flat blade scraper, broom, dustpan, shop vac, and proper PPE.
- Allow the flake broadcast garage floor to properly dry and cure. After 6-8 hours, remove excess flakes by scraping the surface with a flat-edge trowel or wide floor scraper (available on our website). This step knocks down sharp edges, vertical flake buildup, and any loose material to create a smooth, uniform profile.
- After the flake chips have been fully broadcast and cured, the control joints must be reopened and cleaned out. Use a floor scraper or putty knife to carefully cut along the joint and remove any excess flakes or coating buildup.
- Don’t overlook the perimeter edges. Use a smaller scraper to remove excess flakes and buildup along base areas and lower wall edges. Finish by sweeping the surface with a stiff broom or leaf blower, then vacuum thoroughly to eliminate all remaining debris before applying the topcoat.
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Step 14: Masking the Area: Polyaspartic Application
REQUIRED TOOLS: Blue masking tape, utility knife, and proper PPE.
If the garage walls are already painted, apply blue painter’s tape along the perimeter where the wall meets the floor, leaving a 1/8" gap above the surface.
For application purposes, mark reference points the first 200 sq. ft. of the floor from the back wall to an control joint, if present.
IMPORTANT! Where the garage door comes down to the floor, apply 1" of tape back and away from the bottom of the garage door. This ensures the epoxy coating does NOT go past where the garage door comes down.
Make sure the painters' tape is firmly pressed onto the area to ensure correct adhesion so no epoxy can seep or “bleed” underneath.
NOTE: Do not mix Polyaspartic before completely masking off unmovable objects (water heater, A/C, etc.) and sections that need to be protected.
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Step 15: Mix Polyaspartic Top-Coat
REQUIRED TOOLS: Mixing paddles (Jiffy mixer), paint stir sticks, shop towels, and proper PPE.
- Vigorously shake Part B for approximately 20 to 30 seconds. Pour Part-A and Part-B into a clean 5-gallon mixing bucket. Mix for 1 full minute using an electric drill at 500rpms, scraping the bottom and sides of the mixing container.
- If more than one 2-gallon kit is needed, do not mix more than can be applied within 25 minutes.
- Mix the entire kit.
- After mixing, immediately pour onto concrete garage surface!
- NOTE: Hotter air temperature and higher humidity can reduce work-time.
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Step 16: Apply Polyaspartic Top-Coat Protection
REQUIRED TOOLS: Spiked Shoes, flat blade squeegee, long handle paint roller & covers, mini-roller & covers, and proper PPE.
Make sure that temperatures will remain between 50- and 90-degrees Fahrenheit and relative humidity to stay below 75%.
- While wearing spiked shoes, immediately pour the mixed top-coat onto the floor in wavy wide ribbons, running perpendicular across the surface. Do not scrape the sides or the bottom of the mixing bucket onto the floor. Any unmixed product can contaminate the cure process.
- IMPORTANT / IF APPLICABLE: At the same time, pour approximately 48 oz. of the mixed polyaspartic into a paint tray. Using a mini roller, apply the polyaspartic to stem walls, stair risers, foundation walls, and any other vertical concrete surfaces. Complete these vertical areas while the floor coating remains wet to ensure a consistent finish and uniform appearance throughout the installation.
- Use the 27" Easy Squeegee™ Flat Flexible Blade with Corner Wings (fits the 26" frame) to evenly spread polyaspartic across the floor surface, which should cover 125-150 sq. ft. per gallon.
- Next, using a 3/8” nap 18-inch non-shedding roller with a phenolic (plastic) core, roll the top-coat forward and backward to distribute it evenly across the entire surface. Make sure to wet out your roller cover with excess material prior to rolling out the entire surface. Apply just as you would paint a floor, ensuring uniform coverage working your way out of the room. Back roll in the opposite direction to level the coating IF NEEDED.
NOTE: Be cautious to not leave roller lines or ridges which could show through as high points in the flakes.
Remove tape: Once the polyaspartic has been applied, the tape must be removed. This ensures the tape doesn't become adhered to walls and objects when it dries/cures. You will have around 45 minutes to maybe 1 hour to remove the tape. Use spiked shoes to walk across quickly (but carefully) and pull the tape slowly from each end all the way across where it is taped.
- Pot life: 5 minutes
- Working time: 25 minutes
- COVERAGE: 125-150 sq. ft. per gallon
- Dry time (walking): 10 hours
- Dry time (return of contents): 24-48 hours
- Cure / return to service: 72 hours+ (driving)
Do not fully close the garage door during this curing window, as restricted airflow can impact performance and finish quality.
Installation Questions
Quick answers to the most common questions about installing your WiseBond flake floor.
What safety gear do I need to install an epoxy floor?
Wear chemical-resistant gloves, eye protection, and appropriate respiratory protection at all times while mixing and applying, along with protective clothing and safety footwear. Keep the garage door fully open during application for ventilation, and add hearing protection and a dust shroud whenever you grind cracks.
- Ventilation: Open the garage door fully during application, then leave a 6–8 inch gap during cure.
- Grinding: Spot-grinding crack repairs creates fine concrete dust, so use a respirator and a shroud with a shop vacuum.
- Read the SDS: WiseBond's SDS and TDS page lists product-specific safety guidance.
Where should I set up my epoxy mixing station?
Set up a dedicated mixing area outside the space you're coating, usually just in front of the garage, on a flat, well-ventilated spot. Lay down a 10' × 12' drop cloth, plastic sheeting, or flattened cardboard to catch drips, and stage every kit and tool there before you start.
- Why outside the work zone: Mixing away from the floor keeps spills and contamination off the prepped concrete.
- Stage everything: Have kits, mixer, buckets, and stir sticks ready, since working time starts the moment you mix.
- Mask first: Don't mix any product until all masking is complete.
How do I mix the three parts of SkipGrind Primer without lumps?
Pour Part A (resin) and Part B (hardener) into a 5-gallon bucket first, then slowly add the Part C dry powder while mixing until it's fully dispersed and lump-free. Scrape the bottom and sides to wet out all the powder, then mix another 20–30 seconds and pour the whole kit out immediately.
- Go slowly: Adding Part C too fast creates clumps that cause an inconsistent finish.
- Mix the entire kit: SkipGrind is designed to be mixed and poured in full, never in partial batches.
- Don't scrape it out: Never scrape the bucket's sides or bottom onto the floor, since unmixed material can contaminate the cure.
How do I install an epoxy floor in a garage larger than 200 square feet?
Work in sections of about 200 sq. ft., one kit at a time. Mark a reference line about 200 sq. ft. from the back wall, ideally at a control joint, then mix and apply the second kit as soon as the first section is down, so the coats join wet-on-wet without a visible seam.
- Why 200 sq. ft.: Each 2-gallon SkipGrind Primer kit covers about 200 sq. ft.
- Wet-on-wet: Apply the next kit while the previous section's edge is still wet, so there's no lap line.
- Control joints help: Joints make natural section boundaries for each kit.
What is the difference between pot life and working time?
Pot life is how long mixed material stays usable inside the container. Working time is how long you have to spread and roll it once it's on the floor. Working time is usually longer, because pouring the material out stops the heat buildup that shortens pot life. In the WiseBond system, the polyaspartic topcoat has a 5-minute pot life but about 25 minutes of working time on the floor.
- Working times by coat: SkipGrind Primer gives 15–20 minutes, the epoxy base coat 30–40 minutes, and the polyaspartic topcoat about 25 minutes.
- Heat and humidity shorten both: Hotter air and higher humidity reduce working time, so plan to work faster on warm days.
- Lab numbers vs. your garage: Published pot life is measured in controlled lab conditions, often around 70–75°F, so real-world bucket time can be much shorter.
- Multiple topcoat kits: Never mix more polyaspartic than you can apply within 25 minutes.
When should I wear spiked shoes during an epoxy flake install, and when shouldn't I?
Wear spiked shoes on the epoxy base coat, during the flake broadcast, and on the polyaspartic topcoat. They let you walk on wet coating without leaving footprints. Don't wear them on SkipGrind Primer: spike marks in the primer may not self-level, so plan your primer route to work steadily toward the exit without walking back over wet primer.
- Pull tape as you go: For the primer, remove wall tape during application as you move toward the door, rather than walking back across the floor afterward.
- Tape after base coat and topcoat: You have roughly 45 minutes to 1 hour to remove tape. Walk carefully in spiked shoes and pull the tape slowly from each end.
- Spikes and flake: Spiked shoes are what let you walk into the wet base coat to broadcast flake 2–3 feet ahead of you as you back out.
Why do I have to scrape the floor after the flakes are broadcast?
Scraping knocks down chips that dried standing on edge, removes loose flake, and leaves a smooth, uniform surface for the topcoat to seal. If you skip it, the topcoat can't fully encapsulate the upright chips, and the finished floor feels rough and wears unevenly. Scrape after the flake has cured 6–8 hours, using a flat-blade floor scraper.
- Reopen the joints: While scraping, cut along each control joint with a scraper or putty knife to remove flake and coating buildup.
- Don't skip the edges: Use a smaller scraper along walls and base areas, where flake tends to pile up.
- Clean before topcoat: Sweep with a stiff broom or leaf blower, then vacuum thoroughly. Any loose flake left behind gets locked under the clear coat.
- Save the extra: Clean, swept-up flake can be reused for touch-ups or vertical surfaces.
Can I apply epoxy on a humid or foggy day, or when the garage floor is cold?
Only if the concrete itself is warm enough and comfortably above the dew point. The WiseBond system requires surface and air temperatures between 50°F and 90°F, relative humidity below 75%, and conditions that stay in that range for at least 12 hours after application. Avoid foggy or wet weather entirely, since moisture can condense on the slab and prevent bonding.
- The 5-degree rule: Installers make sure the slab is at least 5°F warmer than the dew point. If the slab is at or below the dew point, invisible condensation forms on the surface and the epoxy can't bond.
- Measure the floor, not the air: Epoxy immediately takes on the slab's temperature, so the floor's temperature is the one that matters.
- Check near the door: A wall thermostat can read 68°F while concrete near an exterior door is several degrees colder, and that gap is where dew point problems start. An inexpensive infrared thermometer solves this.
- Humidity effects: Too much moisture in the air can cloud the surface or form amine blush, a waxy film that weakens adhesion between coats.
Why do I have to pour the epoxy out of the bucket right after mixing?
Mixed epoxy heats itself as it cures, and a full bucket traps that heat, so it can harden in the bucket in minutes. Pouring it onto the floor in ribbons spreads the material thin, lets the heat escape, and gives you your full working time. That's why every WiseBond coat is mixed as a full kit and poured out immediately.
- How fast it happens: A mixed batch left in the bucket can get very hot and begin smoking within about 5 minutes.
- Don't scrape the bucket: Material clinging to the sides and bottom is often poorly mixed. Scraping it onto the floor can leave soft, tacky spots that never fully cure.
- Never tip the bucket upside down on the floor: The same unmixed residue will drain out and contaminate the coating.
How much primer, epoxy, flake, and topcoat do I need for my garage?
Divide your floor's square footage by each product's coverage rate. SkipGrind Primer covers about 100 sq. ft. per gallon (200 sq. ft. per 2-gallon kit), the epoxy base coat covers 200–255 sq. ft. per gallon, and the polyaspartic topcoat covers 125–150 sq. ft. per gallon. One 25 lb. box of 1/4" flake covers about 200–250 sq. ft. at full broadcast.
- Example: A 24' × 24' two-car garage is 576 sq. ft., which works out to three primer kits and three boxes of flake.
- Industry benchmark: Installers commonly plan full broadcast at 1 lb. of flake per 5 to 6 sq. ft., and order about 10% extra for trim and over-broadcast.
- You'll get some back: Professionals typically reclaim about 25% of the flake thrown on a full broadcast when they scrape and sweep.
- Don't stretch it: Spreading any coat thinner than its coverage rate to make it go further weakens the system and shows as thin spots in the flake.
How long does the install take from start to drive-on?
The hands-on work fits into one weekend, about an hour per coat, but vehicles must wait a full 72+ hours after the topcoat. Light foot traffic is allowed about 10 hours after the topcoat, and contents can go back in after 24 hours. Cooler temperatures and higher humidity can lengthen every cure window.
- Day 1: Repair cracks, clean and etch, mask, then apply SkipGrind Primer. Let it cure at least 18 hours, until it's completely tack-free.
- Day 2: Apply the epoxy base coat and broadcast flake. After 6–8 hours, scrape and vacuum the excess flake.
- Day 2 evening or Day 3 morning: Apply the polyaspartic topcoat.
- Return to service: Light walking after 10 hours, contents after 24 hours (don't slide heavy objects), and vehicles after 72+ hours.
How do I put flakes on stem walls, stair risers, and other vertical surfaces?
Coat the vertical surfaces first, before any floor coating, using a single-component adhesive coating such as CoveCoat instead of floor epoxy. Brush or roll it on in 2–3 foot sections, then scoop flakes onto the wet surface with a wide putty knife until it's fully covered. Tossing flakes by hand at a wall usually won't give full coverage, because too many bounce off.
- Cleanup: After 30–60 minutes, scrape the vertical surfaces to remove loose or protruding chips, then sweep and vacuum all loose flake from the floor before priming.
- Working time: CoveCoat gives about 2–5 minutes per section, so coat small areas at a time.
- Topcoat the walls with the floor: Pour about 48 oz. of mixed polyaspartic into a paint tray and mini-roll the vertical areas while the floor coating is still wet, so the finish looks uniform.
- No primer on walls: SkipGrind Primer goes on the floor only, not on stem walls or cove joints.
How do I avoid roller marks and ridges in an epoxy flake floor?
Pour each coat in wavy ribbons running perpendicular across the floor, spread it with a squeegee to the right thickness, then roll it out with a 3/8" nap, 18-inch, non-shedding roller with a plastic (phenolic) core. Roll forward and backward the way you'd paint a floor, working toward the exit. Ridges left in the base coat show through as high points in
the flake.
- The right squeegee for each coat: Use a notched blade for SkipGrind Primer, a flat stiff blade for the epoxy base coat, and a flat flexible blade with corner wings for the polyaspartic topcoat.
- Primer vs. base coat rolling: Don't cross-roll the primer. Back-roll the base coat and topcoat in the opposite direction only if needed to level them.
- Wet out the topcoat roller: Load the roller cover with plenty of material before rolling the topcoat, so you don't drag a dry roller across it.
- Work in sections: Using control joints as section boundaries keeps a wet edge and prevents lap marks.
Why can't I fully close the garage door during cure?
Each coat cures properly only with steady airflow, and restricted ventilation can hurt both performance and finish quality. Keep the door fully open during application, then lower it to a 6–8 inch gap during every dry and cure window, from the primer through the topcoat.
- During application: Open the garage doors fully for maximum air movement while mixing and rolling.
- During cure: Lower the door but leave a 6–8 inch gap, rather than sealing the garage shut overnight.
- Applies to every coat: The gap rule covers SkipGrind Primer, the epoxy base coat, and the polyaspartic topcoat.
- Protect the edge: The 1-inch tape strip set back from the door line keeps the coating where the door closes, so the gap doesn't disturb the edge.
Do I need two people to install an epoxy flake floor?
It's strongly recommended. Each coat has a short working window, so one person should mix and pour while the second immediately spreads and rolls the material. Two people keep every coat within its working time and make it easier to broadcast flake while the base coat is still wet.
- Short working windows: SkipGrind Primer gives 15–20 minutes, the epoxy base coat 30–40 minutes, and the polyaspartic topcoat about 25 minutes.
- Flake timing: Flake must go into wet epoxy, so one person can broadcast while the other finishes rolling.
- Tape removal: You have about 45 minutes to 1 hour after each coat to pull the tape, and a second person makes that easier.
- Solo installs: Working alone is possible on small floors, but mix one kit at a time and work in sections divided by control joints.
Can I apply epoxy on a humid or foggy day, or when the garage floor is cold?
Only if the concrete itself is warm enough and comfortably above the dew point. The WiseBond system requires surface and air temperatures between 50°F and 90°F, relative humidity below 75%, and conditions that stay in that range for at least 24 hours after application. Avoid foggy or wet weather entirely, since moisture can condense on the slab and prevent bonding.
- The 5-degree rule: Installers make sure the slab is at least 5°F warmer than the dew point. If the slab is at or below the dew point, invisible condensation forms on the surface and the epoxy can't bond.
- Measure the floor, not the air: Epoxy immediately takes on the slab's temperature, so the floor's temperature is the one that matters.
- Check near the door: A wall thermostat can read 68°F while concrete near an exterior door is several degrees colder. An inexpensive infrared thermometer solves this.
- Humidity effects: Too much moisture in the air can cloud the surface or form amine blush, a waxy film that weakens adhesion between coats.
Should I fill my garage floor's control joints before coating, or leave them open?
The WiseBond method leaves control joints open. You keep epoxy and flake from pooling in the joints, then reopen and clean them out with a scraper after the flake cures. Control joints are cut into the slab so it can move and crack in a controlled line, and a rigid coating bridged over a joint that moves will usually crack along it.
- Know your joints: Garage control joints usually form a large plus-sign (+) pattern. They are either formed V-grooves about 3/8" wide or saw cuts about 3/16" wide and up to 1" deep.
- Why pros disagree: Installers in freeze-thaw climates often leave joints open because the slab moves, while some warm-climate installers fill joints flush and coat over them.
- The middle option: If you want joints filled to keep out dirt, fill them after coating with a flexible, self-leveling concrete sealant. It moves with the slab instead of cracking.
Step-by-step guidance: See the WiseBond control-joint guide for joint-by-joint instructions. See the full control-joint guide.
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